Rakusui, Kyoto • 洛翠、京都

A place very dear to my own heart is Rakusui, a short walk from subway Keage station in Kyoto.

A long long time ago, Rakusui was the principal residence of the Fujita family, the 3,300 square meter garden designed in 1909 by the 7th Ogawa Jihee, and just recently in 2003 has been restored by the 11th Ogawa Jihee, who has inherited the landscape gardening technique Ueji. He says "Think easy, not difficult things. Designing gardens which heal your mind and make you yawn when you see them with an empty mind—that is my style." The garden is what brings most people to Rakusui. The pond in the middle of the garden was designed in the shape of lake Biwa, and even draws water from a channel through the mountains strait from the lake. The first time I stayed there with the family, one Aunty asked if it was OK to drink the tap water. The staff replied that not only was it OK, but they believe it to be the freshest tap water in Japan. After a drink myself, I can't help but agree.

The garden was designed to make the viewer feel relaxed from the very bottom of their hearts. The tall trees along the fenceline hide all surrounding buildings, and only the tips of the mountains behind are visible, giving one the feeling that you've really left Japan behind. There is a nice open lawn area on the lobby side, and seats for viewing, so even on a cold day you can sit outside and soak up some sunlight.

behind the pond is a building called a Gasendo • 画仙堂, which is a 'shrine of picture immortal' (according to the information I am currently reading). Apparently it came from China about 280 years ago. Religious ceremonies conducted there nowadays (mainly wedding ceremonies), are done by the priest from Ootoyo Jinja, a small shrine on the Philosophers Walk.




The cook at Rakusui is also very good. Preparing seasonal meals in a very traditional Kyoto style.

If you want to book for the Autumn season, you'll have to call from the 1st of May (office opens at 10pm), you'll need to book for 3 or more people, and good luck with the Japanese!

Nanzenji, The Philosopher's Walk, Kyoto • 南禅寺、哲学の道、京都

In autumn, Nanzenji and the area around is a good place to visit and a recommended seasonal getaway.

Though the crowds flock there, the size of the grounds keep things from getting claustrophobic, and it is beautiful. If you've got a day to play with, you can fit a good deal of things in your afternoon in this area of Kyoto: There's Nanzenji, Eikando, The Philosopher's Walk, and that will take you up to Ginkakuji, which should tire you out enough. I've written about Eikando in a previous blog entry (here), so I'll just make a few notes on the other 3 places.

Hundreds of years ago (1264, to be exact) Emperor Kameyama built a palace which he later changed into the temple, Nanzenji, in 1291. The grounds are spacious, providing plenty of room for the throngs so nobody gets hurt.

The main pavilion was originally used by the master priest and for a small entrance fee you can see the Hojo Hall, originally built and donated by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Within the hall is the Hojo Garden, famous for it's simplicity, refinement and dignity. The place boasts National Treasures in the form of buildings, objects and artwork.



Though Nanzenji became a temple, part of the original palace gardens remains though, (along with some of Kameyama's ashes) and is now called Nanzenin. Typical of the gardens constructed at the end of the Kamakura era, it has a pond and lanes for strolling, ideals for appreciation and a calm mind. And smashing photos.




A nice breezy walk from Nanzenji is The Philosopher's Walk, so named after Kitaro Nishida, a prominent Japanese philosopher, who used it for his daily meditation. During autumn it can become a little crowded, but never enough to make you regret going. The walk follows a little river that winds it's way along the base of the mountains, and is dotted with a mixture of maple and cherry blossom trees, making for a good spot to visit in the spring as well.

Nanzenji, Eikando and The Philosopher's Walk are a good group of things to do for a bit of a lenghty stroll on an autumn afternoon, perfect for getting out and seeing Kansai a bit.

Eikando, Kyoto • 永観堂、京都

I went to Eikando for the first time 7 years ago. Without a coat.

I was ready with the coat this time though. Eikando has, by far, the best autumn light up I've seen in my 7 years here. I've often heard the family describe it as though 'the trees are actually burning', which I thought to be a little exaggerated originally, but I don't now. The trees really look like they're frozen mid flame. It even makes the place feel warmer.

The area around the Hojo Pond in the middle is full of Japanese maple, and the grounds are big enough to accomodate the crowds that flock there. The Taho-to, which is a two story pagoda, is lit up in the background (halfway up the mountain) and visible from most spots around Eikando. All buildings are given the right type of light, so you'd have to be a fool with a camera (like me) to take bad photos.

Apparently Eikando is a pretty charitable temple, and has gained the respect of many in Japan not just because of it's grounds, but for it's work helping poor people for hundreds of years. One nice story tells of the priest Eikan, took the plums from the Hidenbai trees and gave them to the sick. It's because of his hard work that Zenrin-ji took on the name of Eikando.

Don't forget your coat.

Kyourinbou, Shiga • 教林坊、滋賀県

It's Autumn! Grab yourself a tripod and your camera and take an evening drive up to Kyourinbou, located in Azuchi-cho, Shiga.

Kyourinbou sits at the foot of Mt. Kinugasa, and is part of the Kannon Shoji temple. It's garden was designed by Kobori Enshu, a prominent figure in early Edo arts.

If you catch the grounds at just the right time of year you'll be rewarded with some great photos. Kyorinbo is noted for it's surrounding bamboo forest, which when lit up contrasts well with the maple trees. If you're headed there for the lightup, I recommend you take some warm gear because it does get pretty cold.

The main building has a washitsu • 和室 facing the garden, and the staff provide heating to warm you up after the circuit of the garden. If you're willing to climb a ladder you can also check out the shrine in the peak of the roof (like, up where the thatch is!), and who knows how, but someone's managed to get one of those human carried taxis up in there. What the hell are those things called anyway?

Credit for the photos goes to my father, who was smart enough to take a tripod and uses his Nikon D200 well.

For more information, checkout the website (here).




Below is my own photo, and a good example of what happens if you don't have a tripod or a Nikon D200.

Eigenji, Shiga • 永源寺、滋賀県

This year my parents came to visit, and as a special treat the wife's family took us for a drive up to Eigenji in Shiga.

Halfway up Mt. Zuiseki is a large collection of buildings that was once a thriving monastery where rainzai-zen was taught to over 2000 monks. It's still possible to receive zen lectures in the Kenshu-Dojo, even though it's mainly a tourist attraction now. The temple was built by Daimyo Sasaki Ujiyori, and he invited Jaku Shitsu to be the founder of the monastery.

The grounds are stunning. Absolutely beautiful in Autumn, Eigenji provides those really great pictures that we all crave for in our collections: the combination of maple leaves and temple buildings. Bonus moss covered monuments thrown in. They don't allow tripods in the grounds which is both a good and bad thing (my father was a little annoyed after carrying his all the way up there), so beware hard core photographers.

You can get Eigenji Soba up there too, full of mountain vegetable goodness.

If you're going by car, I reccomend a cruise up and down the Eigenji Dam, which is spotted all the way along with Japanese maples. One side of the river has an older road, not so heavily used and ideal for cruising speeds. Most places you can pull over and park, and even in the peak of the season on a weekend it's never bumper to bumper.

A seasonal reccomend!